3 guys
5 areas
30 V5's
1 day
The Reality:
2 guys
3 areas
10 hours
100 miles
1 ego kept in check (maybe 2, I can't speak for Zack)
I'm sure it's an idea that many people have toyed with, but I have never heard of anyone actually following through (with good reason, as I would find out). The Idea: I heard from Dalen Gray and Zack Silberman about a plan to drive around the Boone area and do all of the classic V5 boulder problems (in a day)! So, I set about compiling a list of all of the V5's in the area and came up with a list of 31. While maybe not all of these were considered "classic," I liked the idea of 30 problems in a day. In typical fashion, I whimiscally decided on a Friday and got in touch with Zack and Josh Shepherd. Of course, it was the only day that Josh couldn't go climbing. So, with a 30% chance of rain all day, Zack and I set out. We got a slightly later start than we planned, due to a bank stop, Wal-Mart stop, 2 gas station stops (had to look for a deal on Monster engery drinks), and a dog on a roof.
Dog on a roof |
Zack on Low Boy. It was moist. |
Zack finishing up Stonehouse. |
At the Blowing Rock trail-head. Come on guys, how does this happen? |
Delays WILL happen. Plan on it. |
Zack on Doug Reed Roof at The Dump. |
Me firing 6 Pac For Shur after a foot dab ruined my first go. |
Zack wasted his energy campusing through most of Biggie Smalls. |
And a super punt off the last move of Undertoe to cap off the day. It was wet. |
- Pick a grade that you are comfortable climbing within 1 or 2 tries
- Compile a list of all the climbs of that grade at major areas using rockclimbing.com and 8a.nu
- Convince a couple of people that climb at the same level as you to go with you (I wouldn't go on this adventure with more than 2 other people or it will simply take too much time)
- Plan on an early start! Or bring a lantern. You will want more time than you think.
- Bring a lot of food and water. Snack food will not cut it for a day like this.
- Pack light and move quickly. You will want more time than you think.
- Have a super fun time experiencing as many of Boone's boulder problems as physically possible!
So, what makes a classic? Is it the history of the climb, the highball factor, the fun factor, the aesthetics, the level of sandbagging? Probably. The best way to find out is to go and climb it yourself.
The Final List:
(*=classic to me)
- *Low Boy V5
- The Fin SDS V5
- *Stems and Caps V5
- *Roof of Death V5
- *Raw Terror V5/6
- *Right Maddox V5
- Left 45 V5
- *Stonehouse V5
- *Doug Reed Roof V5
- *Undercling Undercling V5
- Sign of the Times V5
- *Darkman V5
- *Have Guns, Will Travel V7
- *Mighty Mouse V5
- 6 Pac For Shur V6
- Biggie Smalls V3
- *Throttle V5
- *Nitrous Oxide V5
- Big Guns V5
- Scottish Arete V5
- *Shinister V6
- *Zen Master V8
- *Crimping Nickels V5
- *Joey's Arete V5
that sounds really fun. i think i could do the same for the blacksburg area. climb all 3 classic v5s within a 45 minute drive and call it a day.
ReplyDeletealso, this really beats erich's latest post.
ReplyDeleteyay! this sounds like a blast! and definitely quite the adventure!
ReplyDeleteSuper impressive.
ReplyDeletethank you dylan...
ReplyDelete