Thursday, June 30, 2011


So, I know I said that I would take the send of the Power of Silence proj despite the dab, but I couldn't.  It bothered me.  A lot.  So, we headed out there again today with the slate wiped clean.  Still a project, still no name, etc.  Zack and Josh were nice enough to let me have first go, and I was able to put it together clean this time!  It helped to take a couple rest days.  This time, we got footage (even though it's pretty ghetto), so that should be up soon.  Anyways, Zack took next go and also fired it!  Then Josh was up and he cruised all of the opening moves and almost fired it first go.  Pretty sick improvement over last time.  He'll def get it soon!  Josh suggested the name Perspective, and I really like it.  Simple and appropriate, so it's finally over.  Perspective (v9) is born.  Get out and try this thing, lemme know what you think!

Then we hiked around and looked at / climbed some of the classics.  Our goal was to make it down to the Concave Proj, but of course we got too wrecked.  David put up a right exit to P0wned and I went over to try this little steep project that usually seems to be wet.  It looked soaked, but was quite dry.  We messed with some holds, found a good way to start the problem and after some efforts and very little remaining skin, I sent the rig.  David came in and did it a couple goes later after punting off the topout.  This thing will eat your skin if you aren't careful (or maybe even if you are) but it is still super fun movement, and pretty tough.  I figured it to be a hard 7, but seems harder if yer short.  As 3 new lines went up today, and I'm not one of the young guns any more, I called it Geriatric Hat Trick (7b (to compromise)).  I'm psyched to let my skin heal and get out there again soon.  There really is a lot of fun to be had in the neighborhood!

Sorry no photos, vid will come soon maybe.

Monday, June 27, 2011

Updatin (much needed)

With the recent heat and rainfall, I haven't really been able to commit a lot of time to climbing.  Golf Season!  love it.  Too bad golf is way too expensive.  I went out to Mountain Aire Golf Club to play a round with my dad the other day.  We haven't played there in years, even though it is beautiful and really well-maintained.   The price is just a bit out of my range.  Peak season rates just kicked in and it was $37 on a weekday.  I know it could be worse, but that doesn't change the fact that I can't afford it.  I played really well considering I only get out 2-3 times per year.  83 on a par 72 course.  Gotta work on my putting game! 

And since the only people that read this are climbers, I guess I'll throw in a bit about my recent climbing exploits.  First, I went down into Linville Gorge with Leif, Josh, and Bill a few weeks back.  I had been down there a couple times before, but never did much climbing.  I'm not gonna lie, I never cared for the slick nature of the rock, not knowing names or grades, and climbing in 90 degree heat.  Even so, this latest adventure was different.  It was a fun crew, and I was able adapt to the rock pretty quickly.  With a little change in mindset, I was able to have a hella good time.  I got on some really great lines that I don't know the name of.  I did a fair amount of climbs, but the only one I know the name of was Helter Skelter (full marks for fun and aesthetics).  I even got on some highball that may be a project.  It didn't seem like it could be harder than v4, but it is very committing at the top (so I bailed (multiple times)).  Apparently Joey Henson and Mike Stam have been spending a fair bit of time recently searching and developing new boulders, so I can't wait to get back down there and see what they've found!

Matt Pomfrey Photo

Matt Pomfrey Photo

Matt Pomfrey Photo

Then I trained in the gym for a while.  Went route climbing once (i suck).  Played another round of golf (80 (thank you putter)).  Played at Willow Valley and sucked (but made a hole in one).  Bit of tennis.

Dalen Gray Photo

Dalen Gray Photo

Boom!  Now we're up to date.  While I'm not too interested in going out and doing repeats in 85+ degree weather, I can get psyched on new stuff.  Josh Sheperd and I went out a few days ago and showed the Power of Silence project to Zack Silberman.  We were both pretty worried that he would just walk it, but it turned out that the foot-cut crux was just as challenging for him.  We all got shut down on that move and called it a day.  Yesterday, I was going to the Dump to boulder with my buddy Dylan, but we got rained out and went to the gym to do routes instead.  We met Zack there and learned that he got super stoked and went out that morning for a pre-rain session to try the proj some more.  And he found the beta to get through the crux.  After seeing a video of this, I started to freak a bit and toyed with the idea of an afternoon session.  After a fair amount of consideration, we decided to give it a go.  The new beta is sick!  We were both able to put in some really good efforts, falling just short of the final move.  My skin was getting torn up and my elbow was about to explode, so we called it a day with the knowledge that either one of us may do it first go next session.  After talking to Josh, we all decided to try again the next morning around 8am.  I loaded up on ibuprofen, threw some chapstick on my tips, iced the elbow, and finally managed to fall asleep after visions of sending danced through my mind.  This morning seemed to come too soon, but fotunately it hadn't rained through the night.  I was feeling quite stiff and sluggish at first, and I had a hard time warming up.  We all stopped at Katilfafish for a while and Drexel, David, Zack and Josh all got on it.  It looked awesome, but I knew it would kill my elbow so I resisted.  One more quick warmup and we went over and sprayed Josh down with the beta.  His feet were giving him problems, so after some effort, he told me and Zack to go ahead and have a go.  Zack and I decided to do a coin toss to decide who would climb first, just in case one of us sent first go.  I won the toss and ended up flailing around, desperately trying to get my feet on.  Fail.  Zack's go was better, but still no send.  My next go, I made sure to get every hold as perfect as possible and made it through the crux, made the final move, and barely snagged the jug out of sheer desperation.  After a little hesitation on the topout, it was done.  (note:  there was a spotter wristwatch dab.  it didn't affect the send, so after a group consensus, im allowing it.)  I don't really have a lot to compare this problem to in terms of difficulty.  It has been a while since I've climbed anything at that level outdoors.  I'm tentatively saying V9, and after toying with a handful of names, I think that Delirium's Edge is appropriate.  Oh, and I didn't really bother getting pictures because there was a video camera running.  Until the send when it ran out of memory and wasn't running any more.  So, maybe we'll get some footage when Zack and Josh do this thing.  It's a killer line, very desperate to the very end, loved it!  

Kora doin her thang

The Power of Silence Project aka Delirium's Edge

The first crux

Classic Evil Monkey
More Evil Monkey
Josh's mangled foot