Monday, February 6, 2012

Ketchup

Here's those photos that i was gonna put up a couple weeks ago:

Shep on Zen Corner

Black 45 photos by Josh Shepherd



Mike Stam



4 bros packed into Tilley's truck for the long haul

Conditions weren't prime

CBreez

The lengthy approach to Junkyard Cave

The cave in all of its glory
That's right.  Take note.  That is how Jay Tilley ticks a boulder problem.

V14 Project!!! OMFFG!!!!!

Move 1

Sicky gnar crimps.  Just look at that face

Actually not a bad feature

Cruxn



This move is hard.  You can see the fear in his eyes.


Half Moon Tilt



Saturday, January 14, 2012

Why do you people even need soap? are you that bad at going to the bathroom?

Things are gettin crazy here in Boone.  I don't really work much any more, so now i need good weather so that i can get through the days.  Of course, being Boone, there is a limited supply of good weather.  Last week it finally reached freezing temps and I was able to work on the Concave Proj for 2 days.  Made good progress, but still no send.  I'm starting to get a little tired pressuring myself on that thing.  It just gets so few good days out of the year that i can't help feeling like i need to send it every time i go out.  One of these days!!
Anyway, like i said, weather is mostly bad here, so a few days ago Tilley, Josh, CBreeze and myself all decided to get away up to the New River Gorge.  To boulder.  We drove through rain during 90% of our drive there, so I didn't have the highest of expectations.  Our impulsive decision to make this trip turned out to be a good one.  We went to the Junkyard Cave on the first day because it had the best chance of being dry.  Despite the waterfall that was cascading down the face of the boulder crag, the roof was quite dry.  Junkyard Cave may not be the most glamorous of destinations, but it is a really fun time and it totally works your core, ya know?  Our abilities in the cave really reflected the fact that there is no roof climbing in Boone.  Everyone flailed pretty hard on some juggy problems, but we walked away with some good sends.  Check the 8spray for the deets bros. 

CBiebs gettin ready to punt the last move of Big Daddy Direct
After that, we desperately tried to get in touch with Friksn Sponsored Athlete Nic Spruill so that we could stay at his place as had been planned earlier but then apparently we didn't have enough climbster cred for him to call us or answer the phone and let us stay at his place which is totally understandable because, well, yeah.  We're still wiating to hear back from him.  So we stayed at the cheapest place we could find.  Hillcrest Inn or something instead.  We had a buncha beer so it was pretty cool.  Key was in the door type of place.  Total bro party.  So the next day we decided to check out Cotton Hill.  We started at Cotton Bottom and walked around for a while checking out the rocs.  It looked like there was some good stuff, but a lot of it was still a lil wet.  So, we decided to start out at Cotton Top instead.  Some of the topouts were still a bit wet, but we knew the sandstone would probably dry to prime conditions within the hour.  We started at a little roof up at the base of the routes (which looked sick) and did some fun steep climbing for a bit.  There was an obvious next-gen project on the right side of the roof that's dubbed the Yeah V14 Exists in the South Proj.  Tilley ticked up the holds and Josh and I were makin it happen, but then it just got too hot for the send.  I'd say it's a lot like God Module, if God Module was hard.  Next time!! (photos to come).  Cotton Top is sick!  I had a really good time just running around and looking at these giant boulders scattered across the hillside.  One problem in particular got us all pretty amped up.  Half Moon Tilt was the last problem of the trip, but it was worth spending the time and effort on it.  It is a pretty enigmatic climb due to the unique feature and the excess number of chalked holds.  Once we figured it out, it wasn't so bad.  Or maybe it was, I dunno.  I managed to do the sit, Josh was stupid close and ended up doing the stand, CBiebs pulled some shit out of his ass and thrutched his way to the top of the stand as well (pretty awesome).  And Tilley got epic.  He probably should have sent, but he was kinda out of it at the time.. 
Anyhow, haven't enjoyed climbing and hangin out that much in a long time.  It was a fun-filled trip full of good memories and fast food.  Zebracakes and Type gay diabetes.

O, and the library has been closed, so i'll get some pics up when i can.