Finishin off some old ones

A few years back, I went to LRC and did Cleopatra (7b) but couldn't do Cinderella (7a+).  People don't really get it, but the thing is hard!  This year I did Behind the Eye (7a+) but I've been avoiding Cinderella (still scared of it).  Yesterday I went out there with Carl so that he could finish off Behind the Eye (he'll get it next time).  Some people were on Cinderella and I decided that today was the day to finish off that little area.  I did it second go (but it still felt way hard)!  For a minute I celebrated being done with the boulder and the horde of people that always accumulate there.  Of course, someone had to point out that there was still the Cleopatra-Cinderella Traverse (7c).  I worked out the moves in a couple goes and was able to fire it in a couple more.  The crux was still just doing Cinderella.  I personally had to take 7b+ for that one, but that's just like my opinion, man. 
In keeping with my new system, Carl and I split a 6-pack of Yazoo Hop Project.  This was my second time drinking this beer since I moved here, and it is quite good!
Gen. Info.:  This beer is classified as an India Pale Ale, but it is very unique!  Each batch is brewed using a different blend of spicy and aromatic hops.  They never use the same blend twice!  If you feel the need to know what you're drinking, you can check the bottled on date and go to their blog to try and decode the hop blend. 
The Experience:  This is where the review is going to suck!  We drank these at Carl's house, from the bottle...  So I don't have much to say about the color, smell or how it pours.  I also couldn't take notes and I'm not sure which batch # this was.  Fail.  So, the quick and dirty:  This beer is hoppy!  Even so, it was very well blended and lacked excessive bitterness.  It had a surprisingly smooth finish and very easy drinkability.  So far, this is one of my favorite IPAs.  Price: 8.49 per 6-pack.  Rating: 8.5/10

Enjoyin the little things

My tax return finally came in!  Just in time, as I was down to my final 12 dollars.  Now I can pay rent and enjoy some of the finer things in life.  Good Beer!  I have decided to allow myself this little pleasure every time I have a good day of climbing.  Fortunately, I had a great day yesterday and allowed myself an Allagash Tripel Reserve.  I have decided to feature an amateur review of all of the interesting beers that I drink from here on.  I must stress the "amateur" aspect of these reviews, but I hope you will find them mildly interesting and informative. 
First, why did I get to enjoy this brew yesterday?  I went out to Dayton with Rami and Drolet for a redemption day and had a great time.  I was able to knock out Lord of the Dance (8a) after significant effort, and I managed to not pump off 300 (7c)!  Lord of the Dance is definitely one of the best (and hardest) climbs that I've ever done.  The sandstone is some of the finest around and it features some really unique features and movement.  300 is probably the juggiest 7c I've ever done, but it is still difficult due to the funky movement.  Drolet also made a quick ascent of Capoeira (7c+).  Well done!  He also was very close to doing 300, but ran out of energy at the end of the day due to his refusal to try conventional beta.  He is definitely going to get it next time, though!  Rami just hated his life the whole time and decided to quit rock climbing forever (don't worry, that didn't last long, he went to HP40 today).  I know he wasn't really psyched to do anything at Dayton, so a big thanks to him for driving us out there and letting us climb things that we wanted to do! 
Allagash Tripel Reserve:
Gen. Info.:  Allagash is a brewing company out of Portland, ME.  They have an amazing variety of Belgian-style beers that I am very excited to sample.  The Tripel is a style of beer that generally uses three times the amount of malt than a typical Trappist "Simple" (hence the name Tripel).  These beers are high gravity (generally between 8 and 12 percent ABV) but this is masked quite well by the light body, sweet finish, and even balance of malts and hops.  This beer cellars nicely and should be stored between 50 and 54 degrees.  It should be served in a Tulip Glass, chilled between 40 and 50 degrees.
The Experience:  I popped the cork of the 750mL bottle that contained Batch #163 of the Tripel Reserve with satisfaction.  I poured it slowly into the glass so as not to disturb the yeast on bottom.  Despite the slow pour, the head was frothy and dense (2 fingers worth).  The head was slow to dissapate and left lacing on the glass as it was consumed.  The beer's color is a cloudy, light gold.  I primarily smelled the sweetness of fruit, but there were subtle spice aromas as well.  I found the taste to be fairly complex, with mild yeasty tones and the hint of spice (clove?).  But the prominent character of the beer comes from the sweetness of passion fruit and the smoothness of honey.  Despite the sweetness, there is a smooth finish and an easy drinkability.  The 9.0% ABV is barely noticeable, so be careful with this one!  Overall, a soothing and refreshing beer after a hard day.  Price: 8.49 per 750mL bottle.  Rating:  7.5/10

Review Preview:

Dogfish Head: Raison D'Etre

Unibroue: Don De Dieu

Yazoo: Hop Project

Also, I can't wait to try the Allagash Curieux.  It is the same as the Tripel, but aged for 8 weeks in Jim Beam barrels!

Gettin back in the game

Good evening, all.  Time really flies when you're having fun in Rossville.  Apparently it has been a while since my last post.  Unfortunately, there hasn't been an excess of material to post about.  Anyways, for a quick game of ketchup: 
A few days ago, Erich and I went to Cumberland to try and finish off some projects.  It was really cold (never hit 35) and not fun.  After attempting to warm up, we got on Salo's Roof.  I hadn't tried this thing in a couple of years because of the anxiety attacks.  I get really nervous about pumping off of boulder problems.  It bothers me so much that I try to avoid route-like problems at all costs.  Purpur was getting super close, and I couldn't help but get psyched to try it.  Worst decision ever.  The 'kneebar rest' didn't do anything but bruise my leg, and then I proceeded to live through the nightmare of pumping / punting off the top and landing on my back.  Then the feeling started to return to my fingers and I thought my fingernails were going to explode off of my hands (it hurt real bad).  I quit for the day after that.  On the bright side, I won punt of the week!  This was my first time receiving this honor.
Moving on, at some point I went out to another spot and finished off an old nemesis, Jah Natty (7c).  Felt way easier this year.
Another day, we went back to Cumberland when it was closer to 50 degrees and had a great time.  I sprinted my way through Salo's Roof (7c) 1st go.  Very glad to have that one done!  Then I tried Gross's Roof, but was just too worked.  Really can't wait to get out there fresh!  I did some unknown 7b+ on the way out.  I was like, "I think I'll just flash this rig and peace out."  Turns out, I'm not that strong and got all epic instead.  I finally figured out some beta and did it.  Barely.
Today, I went out to Dayton Pocket or Laurel Snow or whatever with Rami.  This was my first time there since we moved here.  I had forgotten how sick that place is!  The weather was good, but colder than I expected.  We started on Lord of the Dance and flailed on that for a while before deciding to try Stankins.  Both of these climbs are really hard, but I was feeling way bad on Stankins.  Rami's skin was ruined, so he decided to rest while I got back on Lord.  By some miracle I could suddenly do the crux move!  Pretty strange, but I decided to just go with it.  Unfortunately, I couldn't keep it together and pumped off the top. Twice.  How is my endurance sooo bad?!!?!  Then we went to 300 and Rami did it first go.  So did I until I pumped off the top. Twice.  It's jugs!!  I decided it was a bittersweet day, but mostly bitter.  Rami took some nice pics with my camera.  Here are a few:

The big crux move on Lord of the Dance

Trying to hold it together for the finish

First time seeing 300.  Climbs really well!

Funky drop knee stemming move in the roof

On a final note, I am no longer allowed at the plasma clinic.  This was a handy source of quick income, but the self-imposed ban is due to my most recent experience.  Short version:  They messed up the initial needle insertion and while trying to adjust the placement (and not getting it) I had a panic attack.  It hurt pretty bad and I started sweating and shaking all over.  I pretty much knew I was going to die.

Special Edition: Photo Annual

Well not really a special edition, but I did finally get a chance to take some photos.  I was going to take a rest day to recover some skin, but we decided to go to Zahnd (which I have never been to).  I have an inability to refuse climbing at a new area, so I tried to climb moderates and shoot photos.  It was a good day mostly.  The temp never hit 35, but there were a few really good problems that were worth using the remainder of my skin.  I did The Turret (v4), Razor's Edge low (7a), Solar Flare (7a+), and Harvest Moon (7b+).  I also saw The Wave and decided to put it on my list.  Thing looks sick!  I'm psyched to get back out there.  Overall, the area is massive, but there are only a few really good lines.  The majority of the rock is sandy, pebbled, and crumbly.  Just sayin.  Here's a couple shots I took:

Classic 'try hard' face from Graham

Prepped up for the send

Try to get a shot when his tongue isn't out.

It isn't possible

Grabbing the Scream pinch

Beta spray, but his tongue isn't sticking out!

He didn't send...

Foster shared Purp's pain of defeat

Sick arete highball

Nothin like a good rock climb

Today I woke up to go climbing!  9:00am comes early in Rossville.  Nate and I met up at TBA to head out to Rocktown, while Jimmy, Rami, and folks went out to Lilly Boulders.  I didn't really have an agenda for the day, but Nate was psyched on a couple of things.  We ran into Graham and Haley in the parking lot!  I haven't seen them in quite some time, but they're always great to climb with.  Graham was talking about some line that he chalked up to the left of Brown Hole.  We started by warming up at the simulator area and then moved over to the New Sherriff in Town roof.  Nate and I were psyched to figure out the beta on Litz Roof (7c+), so we got to it.  With plenty of pads and good spots, we soon figured out a sick sequence!  Nate sent after a couple goes, and I got epic all over it.  I decided to take one more go before resting for a while, and started bleeding, but sent!  I felt really good about this one.  Then we moved down to Graham's problem and Nate started working it while I recovered a bit.  Nate dispatched it rather quickly for a possible FA.  We're still unsure about it, so it's just Unknown (7c).  I got on it and figured out the movement after a few goes.  The second move is really cool!  I also got pretty epic on this one and started to bleed on my send go. 

My second flapper!  No bueno...

But I sent so it was all good.  Unfortunately, this pretty much ended my day, so we went to Golden Harvest and Nate tried a bunch of beta before it got horribly cold.  Going to rest now, but getting out again on Monday!

Wal-Mart on a Friday night

Can you smell it?  Mmmm, the sweet aroma of camo, crack, and fatties.  Welcome to the melting pot that is Rossville.  For a moment, you may suspect that you accidentally ended up at the local Wal-Mart, but upon closer inspection, you are indeed where you intended to be.  The Rossville Plasma Center.  Yes, this is the place where the woman with meth mouth will try desperately to tell you the cure for a gray spot on your scalp (it's eye shadow by the way); the place where people "can't keep [their] shoes tied to save [their] life."  This is the home of the Plasma Weight Loss Program (giving fluids is a great alternative to working out).  Truly a place of wonders.  I found myself here today in hopes of simply getting some grocery money, but the experience turned out to be far more valuable.  Through my four hour endeavor, I was able to connect with the local culture and learn what it truly means to be from Rossville (I mostly just sat in a corner and eavesdropped). 

These are my scientific research findings. 

One woman had a lot of great things to talk about.  For example, I learned that she's not bipolar and she's not a crazy person, but if she has to, she will defend herself.  They don't believe in self defense in Tennessee, but in Texas (where she is from) you can stab a man.  Also, at Wal-Mart, this boy was circling her buggy so she called 911 and the police never showed up.  I learned a lot and was reluctant to leave this area to actually give plasma, but that turned out to be quite enjoyable as well. 
The rundown:  This place is packed with people, all of them are quite chatty (and sketchy), the kid next to me starts getting a big bubble on his arm (blew my mind!), they stick his other arm and he keeps going, he starts talking about how all he ate was 2 sausage biscuits and 3 energy drinks (which apparently leads to bubble-arm and plasma that looks like a cold-grease milkshake),  the lady sticks my arm, goes through the vein and into my arm, pops the needle back out a little (yeh, it popped out),  I bled out in 30 minutes and left.  This was one of the most uncomfortable experiences ever!  The kicker:  the fatter you are, the more money you make.  I got ripped off due to my overwhelmingly athletic physique.  Moral of the story: I need a job because this simply will not do.

A day in the life of a workin man

Precursor to today's post:  Erich and I have been searching for jobs since we arrived in Chattanooga.  That was a month ago.  In this week's attempt, we heard Aldi was hiring, but we had to go to some "job fair" to apply. Thirty minutes later we were at the Hampton Inn (for the 'job fair').  There was a line out the door for this gig!  There weren't even any applications left.  We stood around (awkwardly) for a while, trying to figure out what was going on, then left.  I feel this thoroughly demonstrated the state of the job market for the Chattanooga area.  Sucks!  Then we saw the car wash was hiring....

Today was my first day at work!  Erich and I landed jobs at the Ft. Oglethorpe car wash and today was our orientation to the good life.  We arrived at 9:40, a good 20 minutes early, and sat around for 20+ minutes.  Then we went through the motions of filling out an application and we were hired!  I really want to go into the details, but nobody wants to read that much.  Basics:  You work every day (but you can have a day off if you need, they aren't unreasonable), you only get paid if you are cleaning a car.  Yes.  Hourly wages, but you have to clock out every time there isn't a customer.  This means you're clocked in anywhere from 10 to 20 minutes at a time.  I could have worked an 8 hour day and gotten paid for 2 (is that legal?).  As Purpur stated, "I can stand around at home and not get paid."  So after standing around (awkwardly) for an hour and a half,  we left.  I went climbing and Purpur went and got a job.  Big congrats to him!

Climbing:  Everything was dry, so that was good.  Nate and Rami were nice enough to come and hang out and spot me for like 5 hours, so that was good.  Didn't do anything new, bad.  We went to Cumberland (Pep Boys) again and I showed them Put A Sock In It.  It was funny.  Rami took some photos: 



Yeah, this is real.  Think what you will.




It's a good line, you should do it.

 Then I tried Gross Roof for a bit.  I don't know how that thing seems so hard, but it does.  All the holds are at least a pad.  Really don't get it.  Then I flailed on some stuff and we left.  I wish I had a job.